The trend for longevity and maintaining beauty is gaining momentum. A healthy diet, regular exercise, and the elimination of harmful habits are all essential components of prolonging youthfulness. However, in today’s world, external assistance is often necessary. Here, we explore how innovative ingredients with proven effectiveness can help preserve youthful skin.
Biohacking (biohacking — "body hacking") is also referred to as anti-aging medicine. The aim of these wellness practices is to slow down the aging process and enhance quality of life by optimizing sleep, healthy habits, and incorporating "assisting" tools into one’s routine.
Biohacking has many branches: some practices focus on maintaining a toned and youthful figure, while others aim to preserve brain vitality and activity. In fact, almost any system within our body can be improved through these methods. Today, we will discuss how biohacking with retinol can extend the youthfulness of the largest organ in our body — the skin.
Retinol as a Way to Extend Skin Youth
Retinol — a highly bioavailable form of vitamin A — is currently considered one of the most effective components for rejuvenating and renewing the skin.
The outer layer of human skin, the epidermis, consists of several layers that are constantly renewing. In youth, the complete renewal cycle takes 28 days; however, as a person ages, this interval significantly increases. Due to the slowed cell division, the skin begins to show signs of "aging": developing wrinkles, losing firmness, and acquiring a dull and uneven tone.
However, when cosmetics containing retinol come into play, the renewal process starts to accelerate again. This is because the vitamin A derivative stimulates cell regeneration, lipid production, collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid synthesis, which are essential for maintaining a youthful appearance.
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It is not necessary to wait for noticeable skin aging to occur. The process typically "kicks in" after the age of 25-30 for both women and men. The speed at which it happens is influenced by external factors: a busy work schedule, stress, quick unbalanced snacks, frequent flights, and many other things that are hard to avoid in today’s world. This is why the proper and timely introduction of retinol into your skincare can help delay aging and maintain a healthy and youthful appearance.
Products containing retinol are also effectively used for treating acne, blackheads, pimples, and keratosis. This is due to another "superpower" of retinoids — regulating the production of skin sebum.
Why Caution is Needed with Retinol Products
It’s important to understand that retinol is not a magic pill; it is a serious component with its own nuances. Although retinoids show good results in preventing skin aging, they can also cause various irritating reactions. As a result, many patients are hesitant to use retinol therapy and opt for other, less effective and more familiar products.
In reality, the key to introducing retinol into your skincare is to choose the product that suits you and to start using it correctly to avoid causing skin sensitivity.
How to Properly Use Retinol to See Results Without Harming Your Skin
Anyone incorporating retinol into their daily skincare routine hopes that the product will deliver the desired rejuvenating effect without side effects. Igor Patrin, dermatologist, cosmetologist, NAOS expert, shared how to use retinol properly to achieve the desired results.
- The specialist recommends starting with low concentrations. For beginners, a concentration of 0.25-0.3% is optimal to allow the skin to adapt. If desired, the concentration can gradually be increased to 0.5-1% over several months, but remember that more does not always mean better. Even low concentrations can yield results with prolonged use.
- Introduce retinol gradually, especially if you have sensitive skin.
“First month: 1–2 times a week, second month: 2–3 times a week, then: every other day or daily, depending on skin tolerance.”
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Igor Patrin dermatologist, cosmetologist, NAOS expert - Retinol at concentrations up to 0.3 percent can be applied daily from the first days of use.
- If you experience irritation or sensitivity, the dermatologist advises increasing the intervals between applications and incorporating a moisturizing cream into your routine. This should be applied 10–15 minutes after using the retinol product.
- During pregnancy, it is best to discontinue the use of retinol.
- Apply retinol in the evening on cleansed, dry skin. After washing your face, wait 2–3 minutes before applying the product.
- Use a small amount of the product and do not rub it in — retinol absorbs well without additional effort, and friction may lead to irritation.
- The main companion during retinol therapy is SPF. The doctor recommends always using SPF with an index of 30–50 during the day and avoiding combining it with acids and vitamin C on the same day, especially in one application.
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How to Choose the Right Retinol Product
It is generally believed that retinol is suitable for all skin types; however, when selecting the right product, it is essential to consider the sensitivity of your skin. If you have skin prone to irritation, be sure to take this into account and choose products designed for sensitive skin.
For example, in autumn 2024, the brand Institut Esthederm released two new products in the Intensive Retinol range, which combine high efficacy and comfort for all skin types. Intensive Retinol Eye Cream and Intensive Retinol+ Oil-Serum effectively combat photoaging and are well-suited for sensitive skin. These products possess such properties due to the two forms of retinol used in them:
- Pure retinol — the active form of vitamin A for intense action;
- Pro-retinol — a "predecessor" of retinol that creates a "reservoir" in the skin for slow release of the active ingredient.
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If you are choosing an over-the-counter product by yourself, pay attention to what form of simple retinoids is indicated on the label:
- Retinol — one of the most well-known forms, suitable for all skin types except very sensitive skin.
- Retinol Palmitate — this retinol, unlike the previous one, is considered the best choice for sensitive skin but may not effectively address serious issues.
- Retinol Acetate — this form is most commonly found in anti-aging products, as retinol acetate can effectively enhance skin elasticity and activate its renewal process.
- Retinal — a quite effective component known for its high speed of action.
- Retinyl Propionate — a relatively safe but less effective form. It is mainly suitable for simpler tasks, such as combating dullness and dryness of the skin.
When to Expect Rejuvenating Effects from Retinol
The most pressing question for all patients is — when can they expect that "magical" effect from retinol? However, this component requires sufficient time to do its job. On average, effects begin to manifest 2–3 months after you start using retinol products correctly and regularly. In some cases, "rejuvenation" may only occur after six months.
“Initial results are usually expected within 8-12 weeks, and a pronounced effect: within 6-12 months.”
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Igor Patrin dermatologist, cosmetologist, NAOS expert The main takeaway is that the effect will eventually come if you remain patient and commit to a consistent routine.
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